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Thailand

Koh Samed

Our Beach Paradise

storm 31 °C
View Gap Year on dudewardel's travel map.

Our journey began, being taken to Banphe, on the coast of Thailand. A really smart minibus took me, Lou & the Martins to the port, where we would get the ferry across to Koh Samed. 3 hours of driving, and we were there.

We decided to grab a bite to eat before the ferry, so went to a local 'cafe' for lunch. I had a HOT Tom Yum soup (it hurt both ways) and Lou, unlucky with food as she's turned out to be, had a gewoosenam salad, or whatever it was. Either way, I thought I was used to Thai food now. Apparently not. That and a rocking boat made me a bit 'off colour' for a few hours, and the associated ailment with hot food.

For those of you who don't know, the three golden rules of Thai food are:


  1. 1 SPICY - their average spice is hot! And I like hot stuff!

  2. 2 Ginger & Lemon Grass - it dominates as flavour in most dishes.

  3. 3 Cheap - The best bit. Noodles & Rice are cheap, and in a poor country, it's only 50p-ish and you're having more food than you've hd before!

We dropped off the Martins at the Si Kaew resort (the Eastern side of the island) and went off to the western side, to the Ao Prao Resort.

A little background here. Koh Samed. Our planned beach paradise, where we could relax in the sun, be treated like royalty, and chill out getting a tan. Our few days where we knew we could just chill out, being pampered to when needs be.

Ha!

Partly true. The island is awesome, really quiet (it's a national park), and the Ao Prao Resort is amazing. On a secluded beach in a cove on the western side of the island, palm trees, white sands, hot, sea, clouds, rain, thunder & lightning. You get the picture. A week that could have been so perfect, unfortunately... well, wasn't.

The resort is top notch, and I couldn't find a flaw with it. All of the staff are really friendly & efficient. Our room was gorgeous, in our own chalet on the hill, just a minute's walk through beautiful tropical plants to the beach. A top class restaurant. It's own water sports activites. And not touristy!

Also, it now actually felt cool (a feeling we haven't had in a while, being only about 32C, Lou needed a jumper! A slight step down from the 44C a week ago!)

All it needed was the sun. It was not to be. It rained, it poured, it drizzled, it stormed. So, what do you do in storms. You go SCUBA diving!

Diving turned out to be what made our week. In the rain, water sports was all we could do! It was either diving, or learning to wind-surf. I really did want to, but weirdly enough, in these crazy storms, there was very little wind. Not good when you want to WINDsurf.

So, diving. Louise's dream since she was 11, and yes, she did it!
She found that she had problems with her ears a few years ago, and was told by the doctor that she probably wouldn't get the chance to scuba dive - EVER!

Sod that idea. We spoke to Andy, the diving instructor, and he said he would love to test whether she could or not. So, out we went. I didn't dive on this one, as not a proper dive. A health and safety dive, as Andy put it. (Incase you're wondering why 'Andy' in Thailand, becase: Andy is English, but lived in Thailand for the past 5years, with his wife and 2month old twins. The other 'crew' were all Thai: B'oh, Dong, and whatever the others were called)

Turns out that Lou CAN dive! We now know that all it takes, is longer to descend because it's harder for her to equalize. Ha! Onwards to doing the PADI SCUBA Diver course!

Obviously, already being qualified, I then had the chance to snorkel a bit, do some reading, talk to others at the resort, and watch Lou learn.

I did join in, though, snorkelling in the pool for a bit when she did her shallow water exercises. And did 2 fun-dives when she went in after that. And, well, that was an adventure for me too, nevermind someone who hadn't dived before!

Out on the boat, to the south of the island, the best place for diving, at Koh Chan. However, when the waves are 3m high, one rogue wave crashes over the boat, and the look on Lou's face, it's not a good idea to dive. So, we went on to the coast of Koh Samed again. Into the water, with 2feet of visibility, and a current that took me and the 2 other Thai staff divers a good 40m before we could tell (we couldn't see the floor). 10 minutes later, we got back onto the boat, and round a bit more coast, to Laem Ruatek. We got here, into calmer seas, and all of a sudden: I was feeding the fish, vomiting over the edge of the boat. I hadn't felt sick, and had loved the waves, but obviously my stomach didn't. A minute after being sick, I was fine again, and ready to dive. Bizarre... Ah well. We had a good dive here, much calmer waters, better visibility, got to see a Lion Fish, as well as dive through a tunnel.

That night we went to the other side of the island, to Si Kaew beach, because we knew there was more to do there in the bad weather. A bit more touristy, with more beach bars, and restaurants, but good touristy. We met up with Lloyd, Anthea & Jess again for a drink, then had a nice meal, looking out to sea (we were watching a storm coming in the horizon). Another reason for going to this side of the island - cheaper! Nice as our hotel is, it's not cheap. And on a budget, we needed a cheaper night! We went off in our taxi again at about 11pm, across the bumpy, dirt roads (deja vu from Tanzania) to Ao Prao.

That storm that we saw on the horizon - it arrived. Thunder that shook the minibar so everything rattled, and making things fall from the bedside table. It was immense. All of the fishing boats came back in, a military battleship had to come back into shelter. It rained a bit too.

So, more diving planned for today, before we left. Today, just in Ao Prao bay beacuse of the rough sea beyond. Still cool though. We saw a large porcupine-puffer fish, and a beaked-copperbanded-coral fish. But most of all, Lou passed her SCUBA Diver, and so is now, officially, a qualified diver! Now I have a dive buddy for Cambodia & Viet Nam!

So, not too disapointed with our paradise stop, we departed, back to Bangkok. Ferry and minibus again, back to D'Ma Pavillion.

We've just eaten, and now intenetting. Tomorrow, Bangkok for the third time.

Wish me luck!

Posted by dudewardel 04.05.2007 9:12 PM Archived in Luxury Travel | Thailand Comments (0)

Buddhas & Beaches

The Start of a Thai Adventure

sunny 40 °C
View Gap Year on dudewardel's travel map.

Ok, so the best place to start with I guess, is leaving Malaysia.
We left Penang pretty early in a minibus, in which we travelled in across the border into Thailand, which was pretty weird.

Have our visa checked, photos taken, watched over by men with rifles, and having to bribe the malaysians just to let us leave the country! Admittedly only 1 ringit each (which is about 18p) but still bizarre!

An hour into Thailand, we then changed onto the promised 1.5hour bus journey...

5 hours later we arrived in Nakhon Si Thammarat. Yes, I dd just say 5 hours. Thanks Dan! We stayed in China Town at the Thai Hotel and just had a look around the town. Not anything special, but noone here speaks English so quite a pleasant surprise! Means I can practice my Thai!

The next day we went to the Temple here - the largest Buddhist Temple in southern Thailand. Really impressive, and as it is the end of the water festival there were loads of ceremonies going on. I was a little upset to find that on the last 2 days of the festival (the time we were in Nakhon Si Thammarat) the water fights don't happen. And these water fights are crazy. People though buckets from cars, supersoakers on bikes, bottles in prams, and water just about anywhere!

Anyhoo, it was very cool, and a new expeience into Buddhist culture and Monks.

Then, onto Koh Samui. A bus journey and a ferry later we were there. In the baking 42C heat. And hot it is. Ouch! Not humid anymore, but really really hot!

We have been staying in the Sandy Resort, on Bo Phut beach. It's really nice. And the location is awesome. A peaceful beach, not really touristy, loads of fish etc, and great food. We arrived at about 4, so went into the sea pretty much straight away. The warm water is so nice to swim into, and the view is amazing. Imagine the pictures you see of far away and exotic places: I'm there!

We went for a really really good meal at The Happy Elephant, where I had freshly barbqueued red-snapper & rice. Wow. It was so nice - possibly the best meal since leaving England, and yes... it was fish! Me, the non fish eater, eating fish. A fresh red-snapper from the block of ice in the restaurant. Unfortuantely Dan took the eyes before I had a chance to... pity that...

The following morning was an early wakeup, and a power boat trip to Ang Thong National Marine Park for snorkelling. And snorkelling doesn't give it justice. It was the best sealife I've ever seen. Literally thousands of fish. If you put some bread into the water infront of you, you would have a frenzy of fish racing for it - all arounf you! They would eat from our hands and stroke against us as we swam. After that we went to the main Island in the park (of the 42 in it) for lunch and a hangout on the beach. The best beach I've been to - ever.

P4180028.jpg

After splashing around in the sea, we went off to visit the Emerald Lake, an area where The Beach was filmed. Unfortunately we couldn't swim here because of the Reef Sharks etc in the water, but we all wanted to - it is so attractive and inviting!

Back on Koh Samui, after a really good day out, Lou & I went for a meal at the Hotel Restaurant, then out into Chewang.

We went to a Cabaret.

A Lady-boy cabaret.

He he...

It was, well, bizarre. But really really good at the same time. The show was really impressive - a properly done cabaret, with big costumes, music, dancing, singing, etc. Sometimes it was hard to believe that all of the people in the show were men. Obviously, some were really awful and scary (like the one that took a fancy for Noel!), but some weren't at all. And when one of them takes off their clothes (except briefs) and transforms from a woman into a man, you're left quite, well, I don't really know what. Confused, perhaps?

Today we are back in Chewang, the main tourist area of Samui, and it really isn't that nice. It's like a European holiday resort. Busy beach, loads of expensive beach activities, stalls and bars everywhere, and at holiday prices. I'm glad we are staying where we are.

Although the beach was pretty funny - the vendors walking the beach with clothes, ice-cream, etc all pester you at least 3 times each. Oh, and if someone walks up to you, shows you a hammock, makes you come closer to see it, and suddenly a small pack of weed is in his hand, with the subtle statement: "You want majurana?". Ok. First of all, if you're going to sell drugs, get the name right. But secondly, when someone refuses, don't go: " Oh, ok, so you want opium or coke instead?". Obviously turning down the weed meant that I'm into the more 'proper' drugs. Don't worry mum, I'm joking!

So, higher than a kite on helium, off I trotted across the beach. All I know now is that I'm in an internet cafe, wearing a dress, I have someone elses underwear on and a tag in a rather 'personal' area saying "snip me". Hang on, that was last week... oh whatever...

Advice to all those who read. Come to Koh Samui, but not the touristy bits! It's all expensive, hence the no Scuba diving here (that will have to wait until Koh Samet). The only thing that's reasonably cheap is the food. And accomodation. And a few other activities. That's about it really...

Oh, and the ladyboys are cheap too (I'm told).

Off now, back to our beach paradise.

Spank you later!

Posted by dudewardel 19.04.2007 2:49 PM Archived in Backpacking | Thailand Comments (1)

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