A Travellerspoint blog

Cambodia

A land of girls...

semi-overcast 35 °C
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The New World Lodge, Bangkok. Our home after leaving the Viengtai for the last time (it's weird how we actually felt attached to it having stayed there so many times!) It was only 5mins down the road, but not knowing that we grabbed a taxi and agreed to a really low price of 20baht (about 30p). Got taken round the houses with a brochure of things to do in the city in or laps (the whole damn place seems to just run off commission from Tuk-Tuks & Taxis) for just over 25mins. He told us about the zoo, the palace, a water park, concerts, shopping, and allsorts. Even after trying desperately to tell him we had spent so much time in Bangkok and done so much there, and the brutal fact that we left at 0630 the following day so couldn't possibly go with him allover the city. He seemed very annoyed and tried to argue that we had to pay him more than we agreed. Pillock. Considering that their culture demonstrates honesty and honor so strongly, it is weird how they try and rip off tourists. I'm so used to it now though. Tanzania, SEA... if you're white - you're rich and stupid. I'm sure not rich, and not so stupid. But I was the one who got in the taxi... meh.

Right! So, in the hotel. Read the sign from our new tour leader: Bo. (*Selecta*) Sorry. He cracked the joke before I did and any other brit. The usual stuff, a few spelling mistakes and warnings of the scamming Tuk-tuks that are the supposed inherent evil in Bangkok. And the list of names on the trip. #1: Tom. Of course, why wouldn't I be number 1...
It continued...
Lou, Jess, Jess, Naomi, Rachel, Meredith, Carrie, Kelly, Anne, Annabel, Donna.

Shit.

As cool as girls are, guys are just better. (whack! Lou actually just hit me...) You know what I mean. Guys hang out with guys, girls with girls, or at least a good mix! If there had been at least one guy... (yes, Bo is a guy, but also our tour leader so busy quite a lot)

We met them, and they too were shocked at the lack of testosterone in 11 of us. Bo thought it was hilarious, but as an outrageously bad flirt (but weirdly good at it with Cambodian women) was not complaining! I feel like I'm giving a bad impression of him, which I really hope I'm not, because he's a legend!

Anyway...

0600 - that bloody annoying thing I call 'Alarm'. It wakes me up, screaming at me. Not my friend.

Up, dressed, and breakfast. I had rice and pork, with egg and potato. Come on: live with the locals, eat like the locals (and get the squits like the westerners) Then, after talking with the others to get to know the enemy... (whack). We got on the bus. (grrr).

In the 4 hours to the border at Poipet, everyone was asleep but me. I played my gameboy. He-he. I'm such a child. Then border control. Leave Thailand, and go into Cambodia. The first time that foreigners got the short queue! (There was a funky foreigner queue and a Cambodian one. Score!!!)
Neat stamps into the passport (it's looking really good now with the new Cambodian visa). And onwards.

It was incredible to see the obvious difference from Thailand immediately over the border! Casinos (a break from the illegal gambling laws), dirt road, peasants and beggars everywhere. It was quite a shock how different the two places really are!

But one thing that the journey showed, was how beautiful Cambodia really is. The miles of soaking rice paddies, the blue skies, the lack of pollution in the country.

And fond memories of what it is like to be in a 3rd world country where not all roads are, well, roads! Dancing road! Crazy for 3.5hrs! Bouncing, rocking, splashing, and just about every type of motion a vehicle can do. The lack of aircon, the lack of oxygen, the bruises, the sick girls. Paradise on Earth... I played game boy...

After the slog, we were there. Civilization in Cambodia. Siem Reap. The flg of the nation based on the local temples at Angkor. The constant images of Tomb Raider style of scenery (it was filmed here). The place was new. Yes!

I loved Thailand, but I needed a new adventure, a new place to get to know and to explore. And I was here. Cambodia. Bring it on.

The land of the Cambodians, The Khmer. A history most people don't know about - both ancient and modern. The most amazing, is how recent their modern history really is...

I have a lot to see, & I can't wait!!!

Posted by dudewardel 01.06.2007 5:51 PM Archived in Backpacking | Cambodia Comments (0)

Koh Samed

Our Beach Paradise

storm 31 °C
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Our journey began, being taken to Banphe, on the coast of Thailand. A really smart minibus took me, Lou & the Martins to the port, where we would get the ferry across to Koh Samed. 3 hours of driving, and we were there.

We decided to grab a bite to eat before the ferry, so went to a local 'cafe' for lunch. I had a HOT Tom Yum soup (it hurt both ways) and Lou, unlucky with food as she's turned out to be, had a gewoosenam salad, or whatever it was. Either way, I thought I was used to Thai food now. Apparently not. That and a rocking boat made me a bit 'off colour' for a few hours, and the associated ailment with hot food.

For those of you who don't know, the three golden rules of Thai food are:


  1. 1 SPICY - their average spice is hot! And I like hot stuff!

  2. 2 Ginger & Lemon Grass - it dominates as flavour in most dishes.

  3. 3 Cheap - The best bit. Noodles & Rice are cheap, and in a poor country, it's only 50p-ish and you're having more food than you've hd before!

We dropped off the Martins at the Si Kaew resort (the Eastern side of the island) and went off to the western side, to the Ao Prao Resort.

A little background here. Koh Samed. Our planned beach paradise, where we could relax in the sun, be treated like royalty, and chill out getting a tan. Our few days where we knew we could just chill out, being pampered to when needs be.

Ha!

Partly true. The island is awesome, really quiet (it's a national park), and the Ao Prao Resort is amazing. On a secluded beach in a cove on the western side of the island, palm trees, white sands, hot, sea, clouds, rain, thunder & lightning. You get the picture. A week that could have been so perfect, unfortunately... well, wasn't.

The resort is top notch, and I couldn't find a flaw with it. All of the staff are really friendly & efficient. Our room was gorgeous, in our own chalet on the hill, just a minute's walk through beautiful tropical plants to the beach. A top class restaurant. It's own water sports activites. And not touristy!

Also, it now actually felt cool (a feeling we haven't had in a while, being only about 32C, Lou needed a jumper! A slight step down from the 44C a week ago!)

All it needed was the sun. It was not to be. It rained, it poured, it drizzled, it stormed. So, what do you do in storms. You go SCUBA diving!

Diving turned out to be what made our week. In the rain, water sports was all we could do! It was either diving, or learning to wind-surf. I really did want to, but weirdly enough, in these crazy storms, there was very little wind. Not good when you want to WINDsurf.

So, diving. Louise's dream since she was 11, and yes, she did it!
She found that she had problems with her ears a few years ago, and was told by the doctor that she probably wouldn't get the chance to scuba dive - EVER!

Sod that idea. We spoke to Andy, the diving instructor, and he said he would love to test whether she could or not. So, out we went. I didn't dive on this one, as not a proper dive. A health and safety dive, as Andy put it. (Incase you're wondering why 'Andy' in Thailand, becase: Andy is English, but lived in Thailand for the past 5years, with his wife and 2month old twins. The other 'crew' were all Thai: B'oh, Dong, and whatever the others were called)

Turns out that Lou CAN dive! We now know that all it takes, is longer to descend because it's harder for her to equalize. Ha! Onwards to doing the PADI SCUBA Diver course!

Obviously, already being qualified, I then had the chance to snorkel a bit, do some reading, talk to others at the resort, and watch Lou learn.

I did join in, though, snorkelling in the pool for a bit when she did her shallow water exercises. And did 2 fun-dives when she went in after that. And, well, that was an adventure for me too, nevermind someone who hadn't dived before!

Out on the boat, to the south of the island, the best place for diving, at Koh Chan. However, when the waves are 3m high, one rogue wave crashes over the boat, and the look on Lou's face, it's not a good idea to dive. So, we went on to the coast of Koh Samed again. Into the water, with 2feet of visibility, and a current that took me and the 2 other Thai staff divers a good 40m before we could tell (we couldn't see the floor). 10 minutes later, we got back onto the boat, and round a bit more coast, to Laem Ruatek. We got here, into calmer seas, and all of a sudden: I was feeding the fish, vomiting over the edge of the boat. I hadn't felt sick, and had loved the waves, but obviously my stomach didn't. A minute after being sick, I was fine again, and ready to dive. Bizarre... Ah well. We had a good dive here, much calmer waters, better visibility, got to see a Lion Fish, as well as dive through a tunnel.

That night we went to the other side of the island, to Si Kaew beach, because we knew there was more to do there in the bad weather. A bit more touristy, with more beach bars, and restaurants, but good touristy. We met up with Lloyd, Anthea & Jess again for a drink, then had a nice meal, looking out to sea (we were watching a storm coming in the horizon). Another reason for going to this side of the island - cheaper! Nice as our hotel is, it's not cheap. And on a budget, we needed a cheaper night! We went off in our taxi again at about 11pm, across the bumpy, dirt roads (deja vu from Tanzania) to Ao Prao.

That storm that we saw on the horizon - it arrived. Thunder that shook the minibar so everything rattled, and making things fall from the bedside table. It was immense. All of the fishing boats came back in, a military battleship had to come back into shelter. It rained a bit too.

So, more diving planned for today, before we left. Today, just in Ao Prao bay beacuse of the rough sea beyond. Still cool though. We saw a large porcupine-puffer fish, and a beaked-copperbanded-coral fish. But most of all, Lou passed her SCUBA Diver, and so is now, officially, a qualified diver! Now I have a dive buddy for Cambodia & Viet Nam!

So, not too disapointed with our paradise stop, we departed, back to Bangkok. Ferry and minibus again, back to D'Ma Pavillion.

We've just eaten, and now intenetting. Tomorrow, Bangkok for the third time.

Wish me luck!

Posted by dudewardel 04.05.2007 9:12 PM Archived in Luxury Travel | Thailand Comments (0)

Buddhas & Beaches

The Start of a Thai Adventure

sunny 40 °C
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Ok, so the best place to start with I guess, is leaving Malaysia.
We left Penang pretty early in a minibus, in which we travelled in across the border into Thailand, which was pretty weird.

Have our visa checked, photos taken, watched over by men with rifles, and having to bribe the malaysians just to let us leave the country! Admittedly only 1 ringit each (which is about 18p) but still bizarre!

An hour into Thailand, we then changed onto the promised 1.5hour bus journey...

5 hours later we arrived in Nakhon Si Thammarat. Yes, I dd just say 5 hours. Thanks Dan! We stayed in China Town at the Thai Hotel and just had a look around the town. Not anything special, but noone here speaks English so quite a pleasant surprise! Means I can practice my Thai!

The next day we went to the Temple here - the largest Buddhist Temple in southern Thailand. Really impressive, and as it is the end of the water festival there were loads of ceremonies going on. I was a little upset to find that on the last 2 days of the festival (the time we were in Nakhon Si Thammarat) the water fights don't happen. And these water fights are crazy. People though buckets from cars, supersoakers on bikes, bottles in prams, and water just about anywhere!

Anyhoo, it was very cool, and a new expeience into Buddhist culture and Monks.

Then, onto Koh Samui. A bus journey and a ferry later we were there. In the baking 42C heat. And hot it is. Ouch! Not humid anymore, but really really hot!

We have been staying in the Sandy Resort, on Bo Phut beach. It's really nice. And the location is awesome. A peaceful beach, not really touristy, loads of fish etc, and great food. We arrived at about 4, so went into the sea pretty much straight away. The warm water is so nice to swim into, and the view is amazing. Imagine the pictures you see of far away and exotic places: I'm there!

We went for a really really good meal at The Happy Elephant, where I had freshly barbqueued red-snapper & rice. Wow. It was so nice - possibly the best meal since leaving England, and yes... it was fish! Me, the non fish eater, eating fish. A fresh red-snapper from the block of ice in the restaurant. Unfortuantely Dan took the eyes before I had a chance to... pity that...

The following morning was an early wakeup, and a power boat trip to Ang Thong National Marine Park for snorkelling. And snorkelling doesn't give it justice. It was the best sealife I've ever seen. Literally thousands of fish. If you put some bread into the water infront of you, you would have a frenzy of fish racing for it - all arounf you! They would eat from our hands and stroke against us as we swam. After that we went to the main Island in the park (of the 42 in it) for lunch and a hangout on the beach. The best beach I've been to - ever.

P4180028.jpg

After splashing around in the sea, we went off to visit the Emerald Lake, an area where The Beach was filmed. Unfortunately we couldn't swim here because of the Reef Sharks etc in the water, but we all wanted to - it is so attractive and inviting!

Back on Koh Samui, after a really good day out, Lou & I went for a meal at the Hotel Restaurant, then out into Chewang.

We went to a Cabaret.

A Lady-boy cabaret.

He he...

It was, well, bizarre. But really really good at the same time. The show was really impressive - a properly done cabaret, with big costumes, music, dancing, singing, etc. Sometimes it was hard to believe that all of the people in the show were men. Obviously, some were really awful and scary (like the one that took a fancy for Noel!), but some weren't at all. And when one of them takes off their clothes (except briefs) and transforms from a woman into a man, you're left quite, well, I don't really know what. Confused, perhaps?

Today we are back in Chewang, the main tourist area of Samui, and it really isn't that nice. It's like a European holiday resort. Busy beach, loads of expensive beach activities, stalls and bars everywhere, and at holiday prices. I'm glad we are staying where we are.

Although the beach was pretty funny - the vendors walking the beach with clothes, ice-cream, etc all pester you at least 3 times each. Oh, and if someone walks up to you, shows you a hammock, makes you come closer to see it, and suddenly a small pack of weed is in his hand, with the subtle statement: "You want majurana?". Ok. First of all, if you're going to sell drugs, get the name right. But secondly, when someone refuses, don't go: " Oh, ok, so you want opium or coke instead?". Obviously turning down the weed meant that I'm into the more 'proper' drugs. Don't worry mum, I'm joking!

So, higher than a kite on helium, off I trotted across the beach. All I know now is that I'm in an internet cafe, wearing a dress, I have someone elses underwear on and a tag in a rather 'personal' area saying "snip me". Hang on, that was last week... oh whatever...

Advice to all those who read. Come to Koh Samui, but not the touristy bits! It's all expensive, hence the no Scuba diving here (that will have to wait until Koh Samet). The only thing that's reasonably cheap is the food. And accomodation. And a few other activities. That's about it really...

Oh, and the ladyboys are cheap too (I'm told).

Off now, back to our beach paradise.

Spank you later!

Posted by dudewardel 19.04.2007 2:49 PM Archived in Backpacking | Thailand Comments (1)

Singapore

The Lion City

sunny 33 °C
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Asia.

A new continent, new cultures, and a new timezone.

13:00 - Wakeup.

I know we were out late at the Bugis Street Market (it's a very cool place - we've been another two times since the first night), but a lie-in certainly was not planned. A bit annoyed, we got up quickly, ready to explore. We'd planned to go to Orchard Road, and as we knew it all stayed open to at least 9pm, we were OK.

Orchard Road -
It's massive. Uber-massive. 10 Trafford Centres, 10 Bullrings, and a few other 6 story high shopping centres, hundreds of restaurants, shed-loads of stalls... oh, and one or two people along the way. If you want to shop - come here. It has everything. Mostly clothing, but every type. From the top designers, to cheap/fake T-shirt outlets. Restaurants vary from the ridiculously expensive, ridiculously shite, and just downright crazy. hey even have McDonalds (about 30 really, and Pizza Huts, and Burger Kings, and Subway... I can't escape them - they are literally every where! There's one outside the room I'm in now! Although I'm not on Orchard Road anymore...) I liked it, and it was a lot of fun, but if you just wanted to get a new shirt, you wouldn't know where to begin. My advice - shop here if you are crazy. Louise bought a few nice tops ;)

The Thai Embassy -
It's a building full of Ties... I mean THAIs (*Whack* Stop it Tom! You're just not funny!)
A Thai Visa. Actually really easy to get. Take: 1xPassport, 1xPhoto, 1xSelf. Fill in the form, hand it in with $50 (Singapore Dollars). The problem arose when returning to get it: 100 people wanted visas - none had been done. All crammed into one room, it's Singapore, so it's frigging hot, and the AC is on the blink. A few hours later we got the visas, and left the embassy, back down Orchard Road. Bring on Thailand!

Exploring Singapore is cool. And easy. And cheap. It's huge, and all the buildings are too. A real difference from Arusha!

The MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) -
it's Singapore's version of the London Underground. Done properly.
It's super-wicked-ace. And cheap. You go to the station, go to the machine, pay the fare, take your card, scan it passed the electronic reader, got to the platform, get on, arrive, go out, get your dollar deposit for the card/ticket back, leave.
Actually that doesn't sound that cool at all. Just take it from me, its like the underground, but better. Clean, smart, modern, efficient, cheaper, calmer... just better... get it?

Sentosa Island - We got there by cable-car. Actually really cool, across a section if jungle and then sea. Off at the other side, at Singapore's paradise island. Home of the biggest Merlion in Singapore, the Skytower, the beaches... and the tourists. Lots of tourists, means tourist prices too. A bit annoying, but the island was a bit disappointing too. We had read the best reviews, asked loads of people, and seen adverts all over the place for this awesome getaway. To find it covered in people spending money left right and center doing the weirdest of activities. Yes, some bits were very cool, like the Luge (sit on a cart, and race down a hill track), only spoilt by the huge queue we had to go through at the start (why am I complaining, us Brits love queuing!) The beaches were nice, palm trees, soft sand, nice bars etc. but after Zanzibar, it just wasn't up to our new superior standard! The fact it was covered in people was probably what was most annoying. Swimming was good though. Got a few pictures. Left. Disappointed, but had some good times. Got on the LRT, over the sea, to Vivo City...

Vivo City -
Singapore's biggest shopping centre. Not a cool place. Busy, huge, and way too typical of a shopping centre, mega-mart, complex, thing! It was awful. The only thing I liked about it was the park on top where I could paddle. We escaped to the MRT pretty quickly, and went back to Dhoby Ghaut (the station nearest the Hangout).

We were a little disappointed with the day, and so decided to go out on a typical Singaporean night out...

The Cathay Cinema & Mr Bean's Holiday -
Alright, I know, very not your everyday traveling experience when on a budget, but it was worth it. Even just for the experience!
It's not that different from a western cinema really, the fish and chips, curry dishes, chicken salads and cakes all go well with popcorn. The guy next to you playing on his phone, texting people, online and anything/everything else you can to on a palmtop rather than watch the film he's just paid to see. The 2 different sets of subtitles along the bottom of the screen, people laughing at the wrong bits, and the mass amounts of people killing themselves laughing when the smallest slapstick gag happened (in a Mr Bean film, that's a lot of dead Asians). That and a damn good film - all in all makes a seriously good night out!

Singapore Zoo - The best zoo I have ever been to. It's naturally in the tropics which helps, but it's just ace! Really big, filled with amazing animals, and simply a really good day out. I did think it was interesting seeing how upset it made me to see all the animals in pens. After living in the African Savannah with the animals out in the wild it's quite a contrast. But it was good to see how much care they really had for the animals, and what they did in the way of rehabilitation, research, and conservation. Being in a jungle full of bats, sloths, marmosets, iguanas, turtles, giant butterflies and all sorts of other weird animals was great. And the free-ranging monkeys and orangutans, wow. A tiny monkey appears on a rock next to you, or an orangutan crosses your path, you just look on with a grin on your face.
The day actually really made me want to do an orangutan conservation project in a jungle somewhere. Who knows...

Our last night at the Hangout was uneventful really: ate out, packed our bags, went to sleep. We were tired after the busy day and weren't really up for doing anything weird.

Goodbye Hangout! Goodbye nice staff! Goodbye free internet! Goodbye big bedroom (apparently the reason it was so big and nice was because we were upgraded for free for being there for so long! I'm certainly not complaining!) Got a taxi from the Hangout, across to China Town, to our hotel for the night - The Royal Peacock. It's smart, but old, and so a little less appealing than the ultra modern/simple Hangout from where we had just come. Checked in, checked out the room, and left. Wow that sounds like we left as in, well, left. We didn't. We temporarily disembarked on a walk around China Town. Isn't that better?

China Town - I'm in it. Right now. Seems bizarre really - China Town in Singapore. Yes, I know Singapore isn't China, but... oh forget it.
It's really quiet. Although it is Sunday and half the places are closed, so I guess we should have planned our visit here a little better. It's not that special really, It's just filled with massage parlours, medicine shops, beauty & hair salons and mobile phone shops. Obviously there are a few other types of shop, but really not in comparison to the above. It's weird. Although I am tempted by the geomancer...

When done here, we'll be going back to the Royal PinCock (childish, I know) and sorting out our bags. Then going to meet our new group. Intrepid here we go.

Bunch of frigging tourists.

Glad I'm not one.

Posted by dudewardel 08.04.2007 12:05 PM Archived in Backpacking | Singapore Comments (0)

A lot of very little

Meserani

sunny 38 °C
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So, a lot of very little makes a lot of little sense, right?

No updates for a while because very little to tell that is exciting, and actually been pretty busy working.

So we left Arusha to our temporary residence at the 'Meserani Snake Park' (search google if you must) and pitched our tents in a good spot for the following few weeks. Not as established as our wooden bomas in Eluai, but the holes and mosquitoes made up for that.

It's a very nice place, full of green (not dusty like most of the country), it has a bar which is pretty cheap, the snake park is awesome, and feeding a Black Mamba or a rock Python is something worth doing. Although if you do have a Spitting Black Cobra rearing at you when you are about to ut in a few live chicks for lunch, don't be too alarmed, it'll only blind you given half a chance.

And how many people can say they play with Striped Hyenas? I'll tell you, exactly 24. No questions or arguements, that's it and always will be, unless I change my mind. Anyhoo, Fezzy is great fun, and reasonably tame, only leaving me with a few small cuts and grazes after our playful scraps.

Bird watching - I like it. Sad, I know, but it's true. I like birds. and here there are so many. We are doing a survey and already have over 35 species of bird, just at the camp! And no, mum, I doubt I will be as interested in England - british birds are crap in comparison. Sucky old england and it's sucky old birds. Rant over, Tanzania is much more inspiring than England as a natural wonder, a chameleon falling on you when you're eating dinner is a bit cooler than looking at the sheep from your bedroom window. Even the cows here are cooler - they've got humps. And there are camels here.

Back to what's going on now...

The main thing we are doing here is working at the nearby school. My job: Computer Fundi (Mechanic). Mikey and I have worked at rebuilding PCs, connecting the school to the interenet, and basically improving all aspects of the IT side at 'Kituo cha Elimu Meserani'. Others are teaching Maths, English, Art, and we have Conor teaching Spanish and Julius teaching French which are both new to the school's curriculum.

It's not as satisfying as Eluia would have been, but the impact we are making is very positive. I've just been working with a few others on a Environmental lecture for the locals.

Dave and Jinks have gone into Arusha to try and get a bit more of the next project arranged. We will be testing it in 2 weeks if all goes to plan, when we will leave Meserani to Manyara.

There are other silly stories, like the Konyagi attack on Saturday (Konyagi is basically te only spirit Tanzania makes). Long story short: drink, forget, sick, bed, hangover, hangover, hangover. Ah well. For £2.00 a litre you can't really complain.

Of course there are other things going on - a few of us a putting together a python skelington for the park, and we are still learning Maa from Nguvu and Isaya, but I do sometimes feel like I miss out things that go on and have been going on. I think I'll write them all down and go on a random blog rant in a few days or so.

Hope you aren't disappointed that little is going on. We all are a bit, I guess, as we miss Eluai etc, but I have had so many awesome experiences that I try not to be down for long about it.

Something else a bit random, I'm only 6 weeks into my travels, and I'm planning what else to do, like go to Spain for a week and stay with cousin Ed, get Josh to get me a Leeds ticket, see what Alex means when he emails asking when we are in Viet Nam and how he might 'drop in'??? Only time will tell...

I'm off now - lunch, and you've guessed it: rice and veg sauce. I like it, everyone else complains. Losers.

Good bye-tch!

Posted by dudewardel 05.03.2007 12:47 PM Archived in Volunteer | Tanzania Comments (1)

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